Revised January 2013
Any airgun is dangerous when handled improperly.
The Outlaw is especially powerful, so the danger must be taken seriously
at all times. Take some time to
review the ten commandments of gun safety, plus the special warnings wherever
they appear in this manual.
WARNING: Not a toy. This airgun is recommended for adult use only. Misuse or careless use may result in serious injury or death. Dangerous within 1,000 yards.
Do Not introduce oil into the air reservoir.
Airguns are unique, in that they store or provide the power for the shots—not the ammunition. Think about that. The GUN is the power source, not the ammunition. What that means is that this airgun, if loaded with a pencil, a nail or any other potential projectile, can be just as dangerous as if it is loaded with the correct projectile.
NEVER put anything into the barrel of this airgun that you do not intend to shoot out! That includes cleaning rods, ramrods and any other items that will fit through the barrel.
Three important safety rules
keep the gun pointed in a safe direction. Safe,
means that, if the gun
discharged, it would not cause any harm, injury or damage to any person or thing.
2. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
3. Never load a gun until you are ready to shoot.
Power Compressed air
Fill pressure 3000 psi (205 BAR) Trigger Single-stage 5 lbs. approx.
Weight 7.25 lbs. approx. Sights Scope only (not provided)
Length 42” approx.
Barrel 24-25” rifled
Bullet diameters & weight recommended to suit the rifling twist in the barrel:
.308 is .308 weighing 115-130 gr. The cast lead bullets that would be used reloading 30 M1 Carbine cartridge
The LA uses .458 dia. bullets weight of 380 to going on 500 gr. is good
.50 cal. uses a .495 dia. round ball the same that used in a .50 cal. muzzle loading rifle
2. Pull the bolt handle up and straight back. With the muzzle pointing in a safe direction, insert a cleaning rod or ramrod into the barrel until you can see the tip of the rod come out the rear of the barrel at the breech. Only then is the airgun unloaded. If you encounter some obstruction in the barrel, push it back toward the breech until it falls out the rear of the barrel. If you cannot get it out of the barrel, take the airgun to a competent gunsmith with this manual, so he can clear the barrel.
the airgun to make certain it is unloaded
to make certain the rifle is not cocked.
3. Attach the air hose threaded adaptor to the fill port. Open the valve on the scuba tank and fill the gun slowly. Allow one minute to fill to the maximum pressure (3000 psi). This slow fill keeps the seals cool, so they will last longer. A fast fill generates heat that can melt the seals, causing leaking. If you fill with a manual pump, monitor the gauge until it reads the maximum desired pressure. No need to go slow with a pump, as the manual action takes care of that.
AIR IS LEAKING, THROUGH THE BARREL, DURING THE FILL—the striker may be holding
the valve open. Pull the cocking
handle back to allow the valve to seat.
Once you have fired the rifle, four times or so on a fill, the pressure drop will give you a velocity decrease and will result in vertical stringing of your shots, from that point on. The low pressure has no power, so don’t shoot the gun empty, because you will just have to replace this air in the next filling. After four shots just top off the gun’s reservoir so you can be at full power once again
Open the bolt and place a projectile in the loading trough. If you are using cast balls in the .50 cal. Bandit rifle, position the sprue to the front or the rear, so it enters the barrel that way. If the bolt doesn't close and lock properly, possibly due to oversize or overly long bullets, DO NOT SHOOT THE GUN. Open the bolt and use a wooden dowel rod to remove the projectile from the barrel.
following pertains to all calibers:
Load the projectile into the barrel by pushing the bolt forward and rotating the handle closed. This is a camming action that forces the lead projectile into the rifling lands at the breech, where they have been specially sized to accept the projectile gradually. MAKE SURE THE BOLT HANDLE IS COMPLETELY DOWN BEFORE FIRING THE RIFLE.
Once the projectile is loaded and the bolt is completely closed, cock the rifle by retracting the hammer until it is caught and retained by the sear. The rifle may now be discharged by pulling the trigger.
CAUTION: always ensure that the bolt is
completely closed before cocking the rifle.
Firing the rifle with the bolt not properly closed can allow the bolt to
fly backwards with a force sufficient to injure the shooter.
Do not make any attempts to lighten the trigger on your rifle. It has been designed especially to be safe as is. Any tampering could defeat the design and render the rifle unsafe or inoperative.
First, ensure the rifle is not cocked. Then, open the bolt. Remove a projectile from the bore with either a one-quarter-inch wooden dowel for .308 cal. and 7/16" for .458 & .50 cal., inserted from the muzzle.
The muzzle support has been adjusted by the manufacturer before the rifle
was shipped, but it may become necessary to adjust the support at some time in
the future. This would be noticed
when the scope sight cannot be adjusted for windage.
Loosen the three setscrews on the sides of the muzzle support and twist the support in the direction that you want the ball to go. For example, if your rifle shoots to the left, you would twist the muzzle to the right to compensate.
Use small adjustments only when doing this, as there will be a huge difference in the strike of the ball as a result. Do not adjust this part often, as it is best if it is allowed to “settle in” so the parts can wear into a set position. This way, there will be no wandering of the muzzle.
When tightening these setscrews, do not over-torque them, as they are
small and can be stripped easily. Use
Loc-tite #222 on each screw to hold it in position once tightened.
You do not need to clean the barrel with a bronze brush.
Use a Tynex (Nylon) brush and a soft patch, and be very sparing with
that. Use a good grade of gun oil to preserve the bore.
The Outlaw will not accumulate lead, due to its relatively low velocity
and lack of heat, so a brush should not be used to clean the barrel unless you
get dirt or other debris in the bore. The
rifling is shallow for less friction, and can be easily damaged by improper
cleaning. If you insist on
using a bronze bore brush, to prevent wear of the crown, clean the barrel from the breech by removing the
bolt, and be mindful of the spring & ball detent parts.
Wipe the outside of the gun with an acid-free oil-impregnated cloth after every handling or use. A silicone cloth also works for this purpose.
The manufacturer recommends the use of .495 diameter swaged lead balls in
this rifle. Cast balls may be used,
as long as they are cast from pure lead. There
may be less accuracy with cast balls because of the sprue.
Patches are not required because the breech has been specifically
designed to accept .495 diameter balls.
Swaged balls may be purchased from any good muzzle loading supply store or catalog. They are not explosive, and may be shipped anywhere in the U.S. without restriction.
Do not use lead bullets, ball-ettes, or minnie balls in the Bandit. The rifling twist is established for round balls, and will not stabilize a conical bullet properly.
For the .308 cal.
The rifle was intended to be used with cast lead bullets of the type that would be used in .30 M1 Carbine reloads. The bullet diameter is .308. You can get cast lead bullets mail order, you can check your local gun shop and gun shows.
Lead bullets meant for fire arms are sized .309 diameter (.001 over size to keep them from stripping through the fire arms .308 barrel.) You can shoot the .309 bullets, again with a slight velocity loss, or size them to .308 in a Lee Reloading Co. sizer for $17. You can also buy bullets, in 100 packs, from home shop casters at local gun shows.
Enjoy shooting! Be mindful that the parts of this rifle are fitted snugly, the rifle will “wear in” rather than wearing out. The trigger pull will become smoother and velocity will increase with use, as it breaks in.
and new filler type
I have made over 1500 of the Outlaw series rifles. There have been some changes and this is to update owners.
.50 cal. Bore size: I made a change in bore size from .490
diameter to .495 diameter. This was
brought about by the change in the rifling configuration. An easy way to tell which bore size you have is that the
.490 diameter has 10 groove rifling and the .495 has 7 grooves.
The round ball for both the .490 and .495 are made by Speer, Hornady and
Buffalo Bullet Co.
Trigger pull: The
Outlaw series rifles have a safety notch in the striker, it would be like the
half cock notch on a pistol. This
notch prevents a full blow to the valve stem unless the trigger is pulled.
I have found that some people pull the trigger so lightly, or let up on
the trigger after the sear breaks, that the striker gets caught on the safety
notch causing what would seem to be a misfire, or a degradation in accuracy.
You don’t have to pull the trigger hard, you don’t have to pull the
trigger fast, just follow through. In
baseball and golf you follow through with your swing, so when you pull the
trigger just follow through, don’t release.
Screening projectiles is unnecessary for the .50 cal.
Screening, rolling a projectile between wooden blocks with window screen
attached to them to enlarge the projectile, is unnecessary because you have an
accurately made barrel. It is been
suggested to owners of Quackenbush rifles to screen their projectiles. Screening would compensate for an imperfect bore, but the
barrel on your Quackenbush gun is made to a standard bore size.
No screening is necessary.
A .495 bore size is just that. You shoot an off the shelf, readily available .495 projectile. It fits the .495 bore, you don’t need to enlarge it to make it fit this standard bore size.
I get calls from customers asking me if this is something they should do. I tell them that they don’t have to do this. They have been listening to somebody who can't make a uniform size barrel, and is projecting their solution onto my guns, which don't need it.
Addendum to Screening Ball:
A sophistic defense of screening ball is again being proffered, this was covered 11 Jan, 2004 on the Airgun Forum. It is erroneous to compare a golf ball to a screened lead ball. The golf ball has a pattern of dimples, not a random roughness of ridges. The golf ball's slow speed also does not compress the air in front of it (as an airgun projectile would), so the air can work with the dimples to create lift. But this lift is only possible because the spin of the ball is in its direction of flight. A lead ball projectile's spin is at a right angle to its flight.
The dimples, again not random roughness, on the underside of an auto is to provide stiffness so that the floor won't "oil can" when you step on it. Reducing drag? They turn the car on its side to show the air flow, which is entirely different when that surface is 6 inches above the roadway. I don't think they're telling us the whole story of under auto turbulence. A car traveling 60mph is only 88fps, not comparable to a lead ball traveling at over 800fps.
All of the comparisons for the defense of screening presented are erroneous because they don't compare to the lead ball projectile's flight. I must be dealing with a high school drop-out because this is high school level science. All the examples of benefit by screening are aerodynamic flight cases, whereas the rifled lead ball is ballistic flight. But this is what happens when you put ego, that you always have to be right, ahead of intelligence and, for your scientific knowledge, you rely on a Lexus commercial and Paul Harvey.
.375 caliber rifles below #60 are CO2 rifles. They can be charged up to 1400psi with air, but if you charged it any higher you would get valve lock up. Lock up is where the striker isn't powerful enough to open the valve against that much pressure. So don't charge the guns more than 1400psi.
No longer compatible with CO2: Outlaws with serial numbers 400 and up are not to be used with carbon dioxide. They should be filled with compressed air only. Earlier pre-charge guns could be used with carbon dioxide for low power, short range shooting, but because of a change in materials this is no longer so.
Breech screws are stainless steel: when you open the bolt of the gun there is a bright, socket head cap screw. This screw, and the one at the rear of the breech, are bright because they're stainless steel. The use of a stainless steel screw will be noticed 10, 20, 50 years from now when the gun is to be disassembled and the screws aren't rusted in place.
Charging the air rifle
click on the picture to enlarge
If you're going to use a scuba tank, the item pictured is called a yoke. It clamps to the outlet of the scuba bottle and has a flexible hose to connect to the rifle with. The pressure gauge will tell you the pressure in the scuba bottle, which is the pressure that the gun will be charged to. The knob opposite of it is an air bleed, it is tightened to charge the rifle and after filling the rifle the scuba valve is closed and the knob is opened to bleed off the pressure in the hose allowing you to disconnect it from the rifle.
on picture to enlarge for clearer view
To charge the rifle the striker must not be holding the valve open. The picture shows the correct position for the striker handle to be in (the vertical arrow). If the striker handle is all the way at the front of the slot (the position of the angled arrow) the striker would be holding the valve open and you will hear the sound of the air escaping from the muzzle. Pull the striker back to the position of the vertical arrow. In the extreme case, if the striker is still holding the valve open, cock the gun, charge it to 800 or so psi, so the leak has stopped, then holding the striker handle pull the trigger and slowly let the striker down. You can then continue to charge the gun.
On rifles serial #400 and above, use this quick disconnect system. The coupler end, on the hose on the right, is similar in operation to your home shop air compressor coupler. You pull back the knurled sleeve to attach or disconnect the coupler to the filler nipple on the front of the gun. This coupler is rated for 3000psi. The nipple is supplied (installed on the air rifle). The coupler is available separately, it attaches to a 1/8" threaded hose end.
The coupler is available from an industrial supply company and paintball shops. I have them available so you can get one from me when you get your rifle.
There are advantages of using an off-the-shelf, readily available coupler & nipple. If the nipple were to become worn or damaged, it is easily unthreaded and replaced. In the future, when a improved filling system is created, it could easily be adapted to the gun. You won't be stuck with a worn out, damaged or obsolete integral set up that won't be impossible or prohibitively expensive to replace.
I have seen some used rifles for sale that were
over-graded. It may be a compliment that owners are so pleased with the
stock, that they would believe them to be a higher grade than what they
are. But it is a misrepresentation, even if it is not on purpose.
To discern the grade of the stock, there is a number carved into the wood, in the air reservoir channel. You'll have to remove the action from the stock to see this. #2 is a Service grade; #3 is a Standard; #4 is a Select. If you're unsure about the markings, call me.
The other number in the stock, in ink, is an inventory number.
click on picture to enlarge
When in doubt, ask
Anything that is not understood can usually be cleared up in 30 seconds of a telephone call. At a good telephone rate, it would cost the caller a nickel. The following encounters would have been cleared up in a hot second.
A customer had a leaking fill needle. I asked if he had replaced the 'O' rings and he told me there was no problem there, but it was the gun that was at fault. I told him to send the action back. On immediate inspection a ragged 'O' ring was discovered. I replaced the 'O' rings on the needle, filled the gun, everything was right. I put the 2 used 'O' rings in a zip poly bag and returned them with the action. I have no idea what thought process prompted the owner to do this, but before even trying the gun, he cut off the 2 brand new 'O' rings on the needle and reinstalled the 2 used ones that were in the bag. And then complained that the gun leaked.
Another fellow removed the breech bolt from his rifle and lost the bolt detent and spring. I sent him replacement parts; a spring and 2 detent balls so he would have an extra ball in case he lost one. The fellow spent days enlisting the help of others trying to fit 2 balls into the detent.
Both of these misunderstandings could have been settled with a short phone call.
From left to right: Action, poppet, poppet return spring, filler end, filler nipple.